Kenya Recipes
Here are some of the most essential Kenya recipes; Ugali (Cornmeal Porridge) being considered the national dish.
If you are looking for some culinary culture, go towards the coast. Although the variety & standard of restaurants in Nairobi is really good and there are lots of choices, it is always nice to go to the coast and that's a great excuse.
There is a long association with the Indian Ocean trade which created some very characteristic regional cooking; rice and fish, flavored with wonderful coconut. Tamarind and other exotic spices are the main ingredients.

Kenyan Delicacies

When Kenyans go out, they go for a big blow-out feast, which is always a huge pile of nyama choma (roast meat). You can order your meat of choice; goat, beef, mutton or chicken, and the way you prefer to eat it; either cooked, fried or roasted.
If you are a vegetarian, don’t worry. Kenya recipes offer a lot to choose from. Besides an abundance of delicious assortments of fruit, there are numerous vegetable dishes to ponder about.
Meat-free pasta dishes, omelet’s, vegetables and potatoes. This East-African country truly has an amazing array of mouth-watering, fantastic vegetarian dishes, topped at the end of a meal with fresh fruit salad. Yummy!!! (As you might guess, I am a Vegetarian ;)
There are also beautiful Italian and Indian restaurants and everything is very fresh & very delicious. So, no worries, there is something for all of us and everybody’s appetite will be satisfied.
Here are some examples of Kenyan Recipes;

Ugali
(Cornmeal Porridge)
Ingredients:
1 cup cold water
1 cup yellow cornmeal (the Mexican flour ‘Mozerapa’ is a close substitute to the Kenyan flour)
1 teaspoon salt (optional)
3 cups boiling water

Ugali

Serves 4 to 6
Put cold water in a medium-size saucepan, add cornmeal and salt, mixing continually. Bring to a boil over high heat, gradually stirring and slowly add 3 cups of boiling water to prevent lumps.
Reduce to simmer, cover and cook for about 8 minutes, mixing frequently to prevent sticking.
The ugali will be done when it pulls from the sides of the pan easily and does not stick. It should look like stiff grits.
You can serve ugali with everything from meat stew to sugar and cream. Your choice!

Vegetable CurryIngredients:
2 large onions, finely chopped
2 tblsp. oil
1 tsp. cumin seeds
1 tsp. mustard seeds (the black kind, if possible)
8 medium potatoes, quartered
1 and 1/2 tsp. fresh ginger, crushed

Vegetable Curry

1 large garlic clove, minced and crushed
1 tblsp. ground cumin
1 tblsp. whole coriander, crushed
2 chili peppers or 1 tsp. cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp. turmeric
1 tsp. salt
4 cinnamon sticks
6 cloves
4 oz. tomato paste
1/2 lb. green beans
1/2 of a small cauliflower
1 medium eggplant
1/2 lb. fresh green peas, shelled, or 1 small package of frozen green peas
1 bunch of fresh leafy greens (kale, spinach, collards, etc.), or 1 small package of frozen greens
1/2 cup dry chickpeas, cooked (optional)
Serves 6
Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees. In a large, heavy skillet or pot, brown the onions in moderately hot oil along with the cumin seeds and mustard seeds.
Add the potato pieces (peeling is optional), and stir to coat each piece with the spices. Now add the remaining spices and continue to stir for several minutes.
Thin the tomato paste with about 2/3 cup of water. Stir into the pot. Add vegetables, one at a time, cooking for a minute or so between each addition, and put in the cooked chickpeas last.
If your pot is not oven proof, transfer mixture to one that is.
Cover with a lid or seal with foil and bake for about 45 minutes, checking after the first 20 minutes.
The consistency should be rather thick, but add liquid if necessary to prevent burning. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking.
Serve over rice or with Indian bread.
(This recipe is from ‘Tim’s and Lara Beth’s Kenya Page’ and it is delicious!!)

Samosas
Ingredients:
1 inch piece ginger root
6 cloves of garlic
2 pounds ground lamb/beef OR a variety of choped up vegetables (Carrots & Cabbage)
3 large onions, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon mussala
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 tablespoon turmeric
Salt (optional)
2 pound frozen egg-roll dough, thawed

Samosas

Flour
Oil
Makes 80 servings
Chop the ginger and garlic very fine or if you have a blender until well mashed. Add the meat OR vegetables, onions, mussala, curry powder and turmeric.
Sauté in a heavy frying pan on low heat for about 30 minutes. If you opt for the meat, do not add oil and stir occasionally to break up the meat; for the vegetables sauté until nice and done.
Cut sheets of thawed egg-roll dough into 4 by 4 inch quarters to end up with a nice triangle. Put some of the meat OR vegetable mixture in the middle; just about the amount to end up with a nice, neat triangle. To secure use a paste made out of flour and water.
Deep-fat fry the filled samosas, a few at a time, until golden brown.
They are great to keep in the freezer, and to serve, just thaw and place in a hot oven until hot.
Chapati
Ingredients:
2 cups of Flour
1 teaspoon salt
Water
Serves 4
Sift the flour and the salt into a mixing bowl. Add some water to make a fairly stiff dough, moistening your hands frequently to ease off the bowl.
Shape dough into a ball, cover the bowl with a damp cloth and let it stand for at least ½ hour.
Divide dough into 4 or 5 balls and roll each out into a flat, round disk.
Heat a large creased griddle or frying pan over medium until it is hot. Cook each chapati until golden; when you see tiny bubbles it’s time to turn them over. It should take about a minute for each chapati.
Press them down with a wide pancake turner or a clean towel to cook evenly. Serve hot.
Tip: You can try different combinations of flour. For example 1 ½ whole grain flour & ½ cup all purpose flour OR 1 ½ cup whole wheat flour & ½ low-fat soy flour....

Irio
Ingredients:
1 cup dried peas (or canned peas)
1 lb canned corn or 6 ears of fresh corn
Several potatoes or instant mashed potatoes
½ lb pumpkin greens or spinach
Lima Beans (optional)
Chopped fried onions (optional)

Irio

Black pepper
Salt
Serves 8
Boil dried peas until détente, drain and set aside. Also boil the potatoes, corn, lima beans, and the greens, drain and set aside.
Mix the fried onions with all the above, add salt & pepper to taste and mash.
The consistency should be that of firm mashed potatoes. You can also add a little bit of butter if desired.
The leftovers taste great the next day when fried with a bit of oil in a pan.

Plantains in Coconut Milk
Ingredients:
3-4 plantains, sliced in rounds
¼ teaspoon of salt
1 teaspoon of curry powder
½ teaspoon of cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon cloves
1-2 cups of coconut milk
Serves 4 - 6
Combine all ingredients, except the coconut milk, in a heavy saucepan and stir. Pour in 1 cup of coconut milk and simmer over low heat until the plantains absorbed the milk and are very tender. It takes a while for them to get soft; give them about the same time you would need for cooking potatoes.
You can add more coconut milk if you desire.
Serve hot and try with fish or curries.

Plantains in Coconut Milk

Note: The wonderful thing about plantains is that they truly are a versatile food. As a plantain ripens, its high starch content changes to sugar.
Plantains are good at any stage; it just depends on what you want to make. Plantains are a relative of the banana, but are bigger, less sweet and need to be cooked before they are eaten. Plantains also keep their shape when cooked, unlike bananas, which get mushy.
Green or "unripe" plantains contain a lot of starch and very little sweetness. Their starchy flesh is used more as a vegetable than a fruit. They can be used in soups, stews, boiled and mashed.
A ripe plantain can be used in savory or sweet dishes. You can pan-fry them with some butter, rum, and brown sugar and serve over ice cream. When buying ripe plantains, they should be firm and not mushy or cracked.
When peeling plantains or green bananas, moisten hands and rub with salt to prevent the juices from sticking to your hands.
Cut off about 1 inch from both ends of the plantain.
Using a sharp knife, make 2 lengthwise cuts at opposite ends of the plantain.
While holding the plantain steady with your left hand, use your right hand to slide the tip of the knife under the skin and begin to pull it away, going from top to bottom.
Soak the peeled plantains or bananas in salted water.
Drain on a paper towel to use in your recipe.

Kunde
(Kenyan black-eyed peas & tomatoes)
Ingredients:
2 teaspoons Oil
1 Onion
2 cups tomatoes
2 cups black-eyed peas
1/4 cup peanut butter, natural or roughly grounded peanuts
¼ cup water
Salt & Pepper  

Kunde

Serves 4-6

Heat oil over medium heat in a saucepan.
Mince onions and sauté lightly until translucent. Add diced tomatoes and simmer about 5 minutes to cook down.
Cook the black-eyed peas and add with all remaining ingredients and mix well. Lightly mash the peas with a fork.
Simmer about 10 minutes over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Add more water as needed to get a stew-like consistency.
Serve with rice.

Sukuma Wiki 
Ingredients:
6 cups chopped fresh collard greens
3 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
1 medium onion
1 cup stewed tomatoes
1 green chili pepper (seeded & chopped)
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon flour
½ to 1 cup water

Sukuma Wiki

Fill the bottom of a saucepan with about an inch of water. Insert strainer filled with greens and bring water to boil over high heat. Turn down if water begins to evaporate. Cover and steam for 8 minutes.
Chop the onion and tomatoes.
Heat oil in a skillet over medium high heat. Add onions, tomatoes, chili pepper and sauté until the onion is clear. Reduce heat to low. Add additional oil to prevent sticking.
Mix lemon juice, flour and ½ cup water in a small bowl until well blended.
Pour into onion mixture and mix well. Add ½ cup water, cooked greens, salt and pepper and mix well. Increase heat to medium, cover and cook for about 3 minutes.

Mixed Greens, Kenyan style
 Ingredients:
1 Serrano or Jalapeno pepper, chopped
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons freshly grounded black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound fresh collard, mustard or turnip greens, chopped
OR
1 bag / 10 ounces frozen chopped greens, thawed
1 pound fresh spinach, chopped
OR
1 bag / 10 ounces frozen chopped spinach, thawed & squeezed dry
2 tablespoons butter
3 large tomatoes, cubed
1 large yellow onion, peeled & chopped
1 cup canned unsweeten coconut milk
4 teaspoons dry roasted peanuts, chopped (optional)
 Serves 6
Fill a large pot half-full with water. Add the chile pepper, salt, black pepper, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add the greens and spinach. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the greens and spinach, tomatoes, onions, and milk and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Taste the greens for tenderness and seasoning. Cook for an additional 10 minutes and add more seasoning, if needed. Sprinkle with the peanuts, if desired.
Note: This will go very well with the ugali and it is a true stable in the Kenyan kitchen!
Kenyan Vermicelli Bread
Ingredients:
½ pound vermicelli
4 cups unsweetened coconut milk
½ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
1 egg
½ cup whole wheat or all-purpose flour

Serves 12
Preheat the oven to 350 F. Coat a 13 x 9 inch baking dish with butter or cooking spray.
Prepare the vermicelli according to the package direction and drain.
Heat the coconut milk and sugar in a large saucepan over medium heat. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 5 minutes. Add the vermicelli and ginger.
Beat the egg in a small bowl. Add 1 or 2 tablespoons of the coconut milk mixture to the beaten egg, and then stir the egg mixture into the pan with the vermicelli. Whisk in the flour and pour the mixture into the prepared baking dish.
Bake for 1 hour or until soft and spongy. You can cut it into squares or whatever way suits you.

The basic food terms in Swahili:
Bill - Hesabu
Bottle - Chupa
Bowl - Bakuli
Bread - Mkate
Butter - Siagi
Coffee - Kahawa
Cup - Kikombe
Egg - Yai
Fish - Samaki
Food - Chakula
Fork - Uma
Fruit - Matunda
Ice - Barafu
Knife - Kisu
Meat - Nyama
Milk - Maziwa
Pepper - Piripiri
Plate - Sahani
Salt - Chumvi
Spoon - Kijiko
Sugar - Sukari
Table - Meza
Tea - Chai
Vegetables - Mboga
Waiter - Ndugu/Bwana
Water - Maji

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Kenya Birds
Birding in Kenya
The variation in habitat across Kenya means that different areas of the country have very different bird lists, making it a fascinating part of the world for birders to visit. Since so much of the country is open grassland or bush the birds are also relatively easy to see. Some specialist tours reckon on 5-600 species in a two week tour. Taking it fairly gently, without a specialist bird guide, but going on some of the bird walks available at lodges we've managed 350 species in two weeks; there's a lot of birds out there.

There are a number of different types of organised tours available in Kenya. Probably the most common is the classic wildlife safari. This offers a good chance to see a number of different parks and habitats. It can however be very frustrating for birders. The tours are generally aimed at "the big 5" (Lion, Elephant, Cape Buffalo, Leopard and Rhino). This can often mean whizzing past a tree full of interesting looking birds in pursuit of a herd of elephants; and persuading five or six non-birders that it's worth spending 20 minutes watching and identifying an insignificant looking little brown job is something of a lost cause. That's not to say that such tours are a waste

of time- they're not. Many of the guides are quite knowledgeable and quite happy to point out interesting looking birds and many of the lodges are themselves home to lots of species and often have their own bird walks through the grounds. You'll still see plenty of species but are more likely to miss out on a few good opportunities.
There are also a number of companies doing specialist bird tours. From watching them (almost as interesting as watching the birds sometimes) they vary from tours where people actually stop and watch the birds in a fairly leisurely manner to ninety-mile an hour twitcher specials where the apparent aim is to rack up as many species as possible in the shortest possible time. As noted above, some of them are very successful with a trip lists in excess of 500 birds in a couple of weeks.

Some companies offer a variation on the standard safari where you pay extra and have the safari-bus or car plus driver/guide to yourself, and even draw up your own itinerary. This can be fairly expensive, but has the great advantage that on game drives you stop when you want, watch what you want and with only a few people in a safari-bus you can always get to a window on both sides. Alternatively take one of the standard tours, but book with a group of birders. It should then be possible to get all the birders on the same bus. Your only problem then is persuading the driver that yes, you really do want to stop to look at that tiny brown bird perched on the reed instead of chasing after another lion with everyone else.

With the growth in the number of birders visiting Kenya a number of lodges now employ bird guides to take guests around the grounds. In our experience the quality of the bird walks on offer is variable. For example at Lake Baringo Lodge the chief ornithologist (Simon) is an active member of the Kenyan birding community and has a deep interest in the subject. His knowledge of the local birdlife including migration patterns, nesting habits and rare and unusual sightings is impressive. At some other lodges we have been disappointed to find that our own knowledge far outstripped that of the resident expert. However for some places the concept of birding as an interest is really rather new and novel and the quality of the guides is gradually improving.

When to Bird?
For sheer numbers the best time is between October and April when more than 120 migrant species have arrived from the Northern hemisphere, mostly from the Palearctic but with some African migrants such as Forbes-Watson's Swift; there is also the chance of finding one of the passage migrants such as the Sooty Falcon in March-April and October-December. If you're interested in bird-ringing, the latter period is when there's a large bird ringing exercise at Ngulia in Tsavo National Park. The coast is particularly good during this period with large flocks of water birds congregating at Mida Creek and Sabaki Estuary, while The Rift Valley lakes and Amboseli attract a lot of northern waterfowl.

From April to October the Northern Migrants are replaced by birds from the southern hemisphere and Madagascar, but these are much fewer, no more than 10 or 12 species. It is however the time when many of the birds are in breeding plumage following the long rains, which makes species such as the various weavers much easier as well as much more colourful. This is also the best time of year for big game. In July and August the huge herds of wildebeest and zebra enter the Maasai Mara and provide spectacular game watching. This also makes vultures much easier to find because of the numbers of animals that don't survive the migration. The Mara River regularly collects mixed flocks of vultures and Marabou feeding on the animals that failed to cross the river. There's usually a fair number of crocs as well.

The other variable is the weather; Kenya's seasons come in two basic flavors - wet and dry. Aside from the
obvious disadvantages of trying to peer through binoculars in a tropical storm the rainy seasons can leave many roads and tracks unusable, especially if you don't have the advantage of 4WD. This can leave some parks, or parts of some parks, totally unreachable. The long rains are usually between March and June with the highest levels of rainfall in April and May. The short rains start in late October and go through to December. It does however vary throughout the country and Northern Kenya is generally happy for any rain it can get.

General Information
Despite the importance of tourism to the Kenyan economy, the road system, like much of the country's infrastructure, is poor. Long stretches are rutted and full of pot-holes, with frequent gaps where the road surface has been washed away. This makes any journey a bit of an adventure and you have to be prepared to spend time just waiting for someone to come and pull you out of the mud. On the plus side drivers in Kenya seem to react well to this adversity and always stop to help one another out. This is particularly true with safari companies, whose drivers always look out for one another and never leave a tourist in the lurch.
However it is advisable not to be out on the roads at night in many areas of the country. Some regions are notorious for putting glass and nails down to stop cars/buses so that they can rob the passengers. In daylight these occurrences are rare, although you are advised to put valuables out of site and away from the windows when travelling through Nairobi.

Most of Kenya is perfectly safe for foreign tourists, and certainly we have never encountered any problems. On some routes in the south, notably between Amboseli and Tsavo National Parks you are advised to take advantage of the local armed guards who will travel with you to deter bandits. The North of the country is a very different matter with frequent bandit attacks near the borders. In fact Kenya currently has a problem with militia groups from Ethiopia crossing the border and terrorising Kenyan villagers. We err on the side of caution and avoid travelling in these northern border areas.

Some people do find the attention of hawkers selling fruit, masks, animal carvings, souvenir spears and shields rather intimidating. We find that simply saying "no thank you" in a polite, friendly but firm tone does the trick. Also having a small stock of biros which can be given to children for school helps smooth the way. Other than that we have relied on the advice and good sense of our local guides to provide advice on where to shop and what to watch out for.

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MAGICAL MALINDI
There is something special in the resort town of Malindi, on the coral reef-studded Indian Ocean Coast of Kenya. Tourist resorts in the Malindi district include the towns of Malindi, Mambrui and Watamu. Malindi is warm all year round, with average daytime temperature of 29 °C. Smaller and easy going, the resorts around Malindi offer a chance to relax in the sun at international standards, while experiencing the Coast’s fascinating mixture of cultures – African tribes, Indian, Arab, Swahili, colonial settlers and today’s modern European segments.

The magic of Malindi is evident as you explore beautiful beaches, coral reefs, historical sites, boutiques, restaurants, local villages and nightlife. Of the local resorts, Malindi is the largest, with plenty of shops, restaurants and entertainment. Watamu is about 20 minutes drive south, while Mambrui is about 20 minutes to the north.

Watamu has beautiful coral outcroppings rising from the sea, and originated as a tiny fishing village, with later up-country residents developing private beachfront houses there. It has only a few, but very beautiful beach hotels, and the overall atmosphere is quiet. Mambrui, to the north is the most recent development in the chain, and also the northern most on the Cost before Lamu.

Mambrui is graced with broad empty beaches, and the villas and hotels there are large and are not crowded. Transport to Malindi town is readily available for shopping, dining out or exploring. For those who really want to “get away from it all” in beautiful surroundings, these small resorts are for you.

Malindi has more touring options. Just wondering around the ‘Old town’ and the ‘New Town’ gives one a sense of history and that has made Malindi what it is today. View the pillar tombs in front of the Juma (Friday) mosque on the waterfront. The taller of the two was built in the early 15th century. Stroll down the jetty to watch traditional fishermen cast their nets. Then, follow the seafront road south, towards Casuarina point, and you will see the traditional fishing boats: ‘dhows’ and ‘Ingalawas.’ Just past the Baobab restaurant, you will see a tiny makuti topped (palm thatched) hut. This is the Portuguese chapel & It was built around 1542.

 Finish your stroll by going out to Vasco de Gama Cross, one of the oldest remaining European monuments in Africa. The cross was set up by Vasco de Gama in 1499, outside of the ruler’s palace, but was moved in deference to religious sentiments.

In late afternoon, watch the last of the dhows returning to port, their sails glowing rose coloured with the setting sun.


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The Magical Mara Without The Migration
Kenya is at the top of everyone’s safari hit list, and the Masai Mara is hard to beat especially when it comes to the annual migration. Admittedly, this is when most people will choose to travel to the wildlife capital's best-loved game reserve, but there’s more than one reason to visit, and as a year-round destination you can expect a sensational safari at any point in the calendar.

Travel out of season and you’ll save money on your return flight, plus benefit from lower priced tour costs. And, while the Mara is one of Africa’s most sought after safari destinations, you’ll also find fewer 4X4s in the reserve. This factor can really add to the quality of the game viewing experience, as off roading is not permitted in East Africa. Travel from March through May, and in November.

Not all of the animals migrate in the Mara so you can still expect great Big Five game viewing throughout the year – leopards, cheetahs, lions, hyena’s and bat eared foxes are regularly sighted in the reserve. December to March is a great time to go as this is outside of the rainy season when some of the roads might leave your vehicle trudging in the mud.
Meet & greet the Masai Tribe. Any trip to the Mara will leave you an understanding of this untouched civilization, the tribe sharing their culture with travellers the world over. Traditional dancing, village visits and a chance to marvel at the local handicrafts make this a once in a lifetime experience.
From October through April, the Mara is a birders paradise. More than 400 species have been recorded to date, ostriches, raptors, long crested eagles and the stunning lilac breasted roller featuring on the list.
There’s more than one way to safari in the Mara and an optional balloon flight over the plains is a great way to get a bird’s eye view of the stunning landscape and its residents. Usually an hour in length, the ride kicks off in the early hours allowing you to spy the magnificent sunrise while the wildlife stirs beneath you. Ending with a champagne breakfast it's the ultimate way to see the reserve in all its glory.

Yes you can travel independently, but head off with a dedicated safari guide and even a slight flicker in the bush might turn up a magical safari moment or two – especially when it comes to the more elusive leopard and cheetah. Experienced guides have a keen eye for spotting the reserve's animals and a great deal of knowledge to impart as you’re driving across the plains.


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Need for Travel Insurance
Travel insurance is what you need when in-eventualities happen during travel. Whereas many are often easy to shoulder, some are pretty costly and without an adequate amount of insurance cover, surviving through the times can be a costly affair. In this article, I am going to focus on travel insurance and provide three crucial travel scenarios when travel insurance can be such a savior.
 

Flight cancellations
Flight cancellation is a common feature that affects airports in different parts of the world. In most cases, one can fore-go a flight or be impacted by a flight cancellation for one reason or the other. Ideally, most flights are cancelled for bad weather, impending terrorist threats and attacks, because of personal emergencies and when air planes develop mechanical problems, etc. With the cancellations in place, travelers are bound to lose out on costs incurred to book tickets because many airlines have rigid policies concerning flight cancellations as far as refunds are concerned. Good travel insurance should be able to cover a good amount of the sum, depending on the terms of the policy.
 
Medical emergencies
No human being is medical emergency proof. This is considering the large number of people who suffer from one ailment or the other; some of which only show when they are traveling. Getting a good travel insurance policy can factor costs which result in one being sick or having a medical emergency on their trip. The costs covered could be anything from a simple medical emergency expenses, ambulance fees, medical checkup and admission fees, and many other costs associated with the travel package like air fair, etc.
It’s important to note that there are different aspects of cover offered for different travel insurance companies. There are also clauses concerning cover extended to third parties in many health insurance/travel insurance policies sold to travelers. This aspects are very important to look at, especially when making a decision concerning travel insurance offers.

EvacuationsThe way the world works presently is a product of the global environment. Emergencies at airports have become a norm and travelers’ preparedness in such cases is of utmost importance. In practice; during evacuations, the expenses one is likely to incur are airlifts to safety, hospital expenses and general transport to safety. Most travel insurance packages are known to offer cover for evacuation expenses as well.
Overall, traveling is great but, a risk in itself. Having travel insurance has many benefits and these cannot be limited to the few enumerated above or n the fact that many tour agencies cannot accept travelers without travel insurance  to reduce their expenses. For the general travel sector, travel insurance is almost becoming an industry standard and hence needs to be well taken care of.

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Loisaba Star Beds
The two sets of Star Beds are unique to Loisaba. The first and original set are located among a kopje of rocks in one of the eastern valleys overlooking the "Kiboko" waterhole. The second and newer set is located about 8 kilometres further south on the banks of the Ewaso N'giro River. These are cantilevered over the flowing river below and are reached by footbridge from the opposite bank.

These are named "Koija" Star Beds and are part of an exciting new joint venture project that Loisaba has undertaken in partnership with the Laikipia Maasai people from the Koija community.
Each Star Bed dramatically designed, handcrafted wooden raised platform, and partially covered with a thatched roof. Homemade "Mukokoteni" (uniquely designed bed on wheels), can either be wheeled onto the open deck area for a night under the stars, or left under the shelter of the roof.

All the beds have complete "four-poster" insect netting. The Star Beds are normally reached by one of many options; on foot, horse, camel or vehicle and with two sets now in place create a unique opportunity to travel between them both and the lodge as part of a Star Bed Expedition.
Guests are guided and hosted by a team of traditional Samburu and Laikipiak Maasai warriors. Food is prepared in traditional camp kitchen, Barbeque style.

Both the Kiboko and Koija Star Beds comprise of 2 double sleeping platforms and one twin platform. Each double platform is designed for 1 or 2 people. The family platform accommodates 4 people (sharing bathroom facilities). Each platform is en-suite and has a large camp-style shower. The platforms are sited to ensure complete privacy.



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NGORONGORO CRATER
In the 1920's it was treated as part of the Serengeti. It is the largest unbroken volcanic caldera ( collapsed volcano) in the world, with the crater itself covering an area of 259 square kilometres and having walls over 600 meters high. It was formed by geological faulting in the eastern arm of the Great Rift Valley two to three million years ago. The volcano created was probably larger than Mount Kilimanjaro. the quick withdrawal of molten lava beneath it made the centre collapse, creating the crater we see today. the name Ngorongoro comes from a Masai word, llkorongoro which was the name given to the age group of Masai warriors who wrested the highlands from the datong, their previous occupants. The datong had in turn taken them from their predecessors the Hadzabe (bushmen/hunter-gatherers). The name llkorongoro echoed the sound of the battle bells the Masai warriors wore when they first occupied the highlands in the year 1800.

The Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA) is a conservation area and a UNESCO World Heritage Site located 180 km (110 m) west of Arusha in the Crater Highlands area of Tanzania. Ngorongoro Crater, a large volcanic caldera within the area, is recognized by one private organization as one of the seven natural wonders of Africa.The main feature of the Ngorongoro Conservation Authority is the Ngorongoro Crater, the world's largest inactive, intact, and unfilled volcanic caldera. The crater, which formed when a large volcano exploded and collapsed on itself two to three million years ago, is 610 metres (2,000 feet) deep and its floor covers 260 square kilometres (100 square miles). Estimates of the height of the original volcano range from 4,500 to 5,800 metres (14,800 to 19,000 feet) high. The elevation of the crater floor is 1,800 metres (5,900 feet) above sea level.

The crater highlands on the side facing the easterly trade winds receives 800 to 1,200 millimetres (31 to 47 inches) of rain a year and are covered largely in montane forest. The less-steep west wall receives only 400 to 600 millimetres (16 to 24 inches) and is grassland and bushland dotted with Euphorbia bussei trees. The crater floor is mostly open grassland with two small wooded areas dominated by Acacia xanthophloea.

The Munge Stream drains Olmoti Crater to the north, and is the main water source draining into the seasonal salt lake in the center of the crater. This lake is known by two names: Makat as the Maasai called it, meaning salt; and Magadi. The Lerai Stream drains the humid forests to the south of the Crater, and it feeds the Lerai Forest on the crater floor - when there is enough rain, the Lerai drains into Lake Magadi as well. Extraction of water by lodges and NCA headquarters reduces the amount of water entering Lerai by around 25 percent.
The other major water source in the crater is the Ngoitokitok Spring, near the eastern crater wall. There is a picnic site here open to tourists and a huge swamp fed by the spring, and the area is inhabited by hippopotamus, elephants, lions, and many others. Many other small springs can be found around the crater's floor, and these are important water supplies for the animals and local Masaai, especially during times of drought.
Following the recommendations of the ad hoc committee of scientists convened after the year 2000 drought, an ecological burning program was implemented in the crater, which entails annual or biannual controlled burns of up to 20 percent of the grasslands. Maasai are now permitted to graze their cattle within the crater, but must enter and exit daily.

Inside Ngorongoro Crater
The Ngorongoro Crater includes most of the animal species found in East Africa.
Approximately 25,000 large animals, mostly ungulates, live in the crater. Large animals in the crater include the black rhinoceros (Diceros bicornis), the local population of which declined from about 108 in 1964-66 to between 11-14 in 1995, and the hippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius). There also are many other ungulates: the wildebeest (Connochaetes taurinus) (7,000 estimated in 1994), Burchell's zebra (Equus burchelli) (4,000), the common eland (Taurotragus oryx), and Grant's (Nanger granti) and Thomson's gazelles (Eudorcas thomsonii) (3,000). Waterbuck (Kobus ellipsiprymnus) occur mainly near Lerai Forest. There are no topis (Damaliscus lunatus), oribis (Ourebia oribi), or crocodiles (Crocodylus niloticus). Impala (Aepyceros melampus) are absent because the open woodland they prefer does not exist. Giraffe also are absent, possibly because of a lack of browse species. Cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus), African wild dog (Lycaon pictus), and leopard (Panthera pardus) are rarely seen. Although thought of as "a natural enclosure" for a very wide variety of wildlife, 20 percent or more of the wildebeest and half the zebra populations vacate the crater in the wet season. Buffalo (Syncerus caffer) and eland do the opposite. Their highest numbers are during the rains.
Since 1986, the crater's wildebeest population has fallen from 14,677 to 7,250 (2003-2005). The numbers of eland and Thomson's gazelle also have declined while the buffalo population has increased greatly, probably due to the long prevention of fire which favors high-fibrous grasses over shorter, less fibrous types.
Servals (Leptailurus serval) occur widely in the crater.
Lake Magadi, a large lake in the southwest of the crater, is often inhabited by thousands of mainly Lesser Flamingoes.

Crater lions
The crater has one of the densest known population of lions, numbering 62 in 2001.
A side effect of the crater being a natural enclosure is that the lion population is significantly inbred. This is due to the very small amount of new bloodlines that enter the local gene pool, as very few migrating male lions enter the crater from the outside. Those who do enter the crater are often prevented from contributing to the gene pool by the crater's male lions, who expel any outside competitors.
Long-term data imply that lions in the crater were struck by four deadly disease outbreaks between 1962 and 2002. Drought in 1961 and rains throughout the 1962 dry season caused a massive build-up of blood-sucking stable flies (Stomoxys calcitrans) by May 1962. They drained blood and caused painful skin sores that became infected, causing lion numbers to crash from 75-100 to 12. The population recovered to around 100 by 1975 and remained stable until 1983, when a persistant decline began. Numbers have generally remained below 60 animals since 1993, reaching a low of 29 in 1998. In 2001, 34 percent of the lion population died between January and April from a combination of tick-borne disease and canine distemper.
The lion population is also influenced to some extent by the takeover of prides by incoming males, which typically kill small cubs. The biggest influence, however, appears to be disease, particularly canine distemper.

Outside Ngorongoro Crater
The Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA) has a healthy resident population of most species of wildlife. The Ndutu Lake area to in the west of the NCA has particularly strong cheetah and lion populations. Common in the NCA are hartebeest (Alcelaphus buselaphus), spotted hyenas (Crocuta crocuta), and jackals. The population of African Wild Dog in the NCA may have declined recently. Servals occur widely on the plains to the west of the Ngorongoro Crater.
The annual ungulate migration passes through the NCA, with 1.7 million wildebeest, 260,000 zebra, and 470,000 gazelles moving south into the area in December and moving north in June. This movement changes seasonally with the rains, but the migration traverses almost the entire plains in search of food.

Inhibitants around Ngorongoro crater
For thousands of years a succession of cattle herding people moved into the Area, lived here for time, and then moved on, sometimes forced out by other tribes.
About 200 years ago the Maasai arrived and have since colonized the Area in substantial numbers, their traditional way of life allowing them to live in harmony with the wildlife and the environment. Today there are some 42,200 Maasai pastoralists living in the NCA with their cattle, donkeys, goats and sheep. During the rains they move out on to the open plains; in the dry season they move into the adjacent woodlands and mountain slopes. The Maasai are allowed to take their animals into the Crater for water and grazing, but not to live or cultivate there. Elsewhere in the NCA they have the right to roam freely.
Visitors are welcomed at two designated Maasai cultural bomas one on the road to Serengeti and another close to Sopa Lodge at Irkeepusi village.
The Datoga, Nilo-Hamitic-speaking pastoralists, who arrived more than 300 years ago and were subsequently forced out of the Serengeti-Ngorongoro area by the Maasai, today they live just outside the NCA, in the Lake Eyasi basin and beyond.

Accomodation in ngorongoro

Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge
From its prime position on the eastern rim of the famous Ngorongoro crater, Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge offers safari participant sophisticated comfort that the early explorers (Stanley, Livingstone, Speke) could only have dreamt of. The lodge has more than 100 rooms all equipped with two queen-sized beds, carpets, fully tiled bathroom with bidets and hair dryers, and private lounge with mini bar. The lodge's swimming pool overlooks the crater.

Ngorongoro Serena Lodge          
Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge is built into the rim of the caldera, the plant and ivy-covered native stone blending masterfully with its surroundings. The  guest rooms are spacious with central heating, prehistoric cave paintings and balconies overlooking the Ngorongoro Crater. It's furniture is created from rich hardwood timber. The lounge and dining room are indoors, overlooking the Crater. Log fires greatly enhance the atmosphere, especially in the evenings. The lounge has a balcony with a fixed telescope for guests' use.

Ngorongoro Farm House          
Located in the Ngorongoro Highlands, it is only minutes from the Ngorongoro Crater entrance gate. Ten spacious luxury bungalows are each decorated in a colonial style, complete with private baths. Additional facilities include a swimming pool and two dining areas. This small lodge is a perfect alternative to the big lodges on the Ngorongoro crater rim, offering personalised service and a special atmosphere. The lodge's farm on the slopes of the crater has an organic vegetable garden which not only supplies the lodge, but many other lodges and visitors can enjoy fresh roasted coffee from the on site coffee plantation. 

How to Get Here
 
By airOne needs to fly to Kilimanjaro International Airport at Moshi, situated at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro. From there one can get a charter flight, take a taxi or make use of the free shuttle service. The distance from Moshi to Arusha is about 55km.

By road
Take note: The road from Arusha to Lodoare Entrance Gate is 160km long. As of recently, the entire journey is on tarmac and it takes about two hours. Unless you stay on the main roads, which are graveled, a 4x4 vehicle is essential when entering the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and the Serengeti National Park.

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NAIROBI CITY (Capital City of Kenya)
Nairobi is the capital of Kenya and the largest city in the country.

UnderstandNairobi has a population of three million plus. Situated on the Nairobi River, the city is not only the largest and fastest growing city in Kenya, but one of the largest in Africa.

HistoryThe word Nairobi derives from a water hole known in Maasai (an Eastern Nilotic language) as Enkare Nyirobi, which means "cool waters." Nairobi, which was a swamp area, was founded in 1899 and was first a railway camp for the Uganda Railway. The city became Kenya’s capital, which was Mombasa initially, and it also became the capital of the British East Africa Protectorate in 1905. With the spread of plagues in the early 1900s, the town was burnt down and had to be rebuilt. Having a railroad system in the system helped it to have drastic growth, becoming the second largest city in Kenya behind Mombasa.
The city of Nairobi also grew due to administration and tourism businesses (mostly big game hunting). The British, who were one of Kenya’s colonizers, set up shop in Nairobi, leading to the creation of big hotels primarily for the British hunters. Also, Nairobi has an East Indian community from those who are the descendents of original colonial railway laborers and merchants.

Get in
Citizens from most countries will have to obtain a visa upon arrival. However, some countries require a visa before arrival, and some don't require one at all.
If you are only traveling through the country via a connecting flight and will not leave the secure area of the airport you will not need a visa.
The yellow fever vaccination is no longer required if you're coming from EU, Asia or North America. However, a vaccination certificate might be required if you're coming from a country where yellow flu is endemic.

By plane
Regular flights to Nairobi are operated by Air France, Air Kenya, British Airways, Egypt Air, Etihad Airways, Fly Emirates, Kenya Airways, KLM, Lufthansa, Qatar Airways, Swiss International Airlines and Turkish Airlines. Kenya Airways is the national airline and travels throughout Europe, Africa, and the Asia-Pacific region. Nairobi’s main airport is JKIA Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (IATA: NBO), southeast from the center of the city.
If taking a taxi from JKIA, use a reputable taxi; many are waiting outside to give you conveyance to the city center; Westlands or such places more west or north will be more. When taking a taxi to your accommodation, avoid being talked into taking their recommendation for accommodation, although this is very at your own risk. There is also Wilson Airport, south from the city's center, for domestic flights. Lighter, Cessna-type aircrafts can be seen there. The military/government airport is in Eastleigh district (pron: "East-Lee"), a very large residential area of housing in the east/north-east of Nairobi, but the government airport is fenced around and does not handle civilian traffic. From the center, you can take Bus #34, to the international airport, from the front of the Ambassador Hotel.

By train
The city is also accessible by train, with daily arrivals and departures at the Nairobi Railway station. The trains go east to Mombasa and west to Kisumu. There are 3 classes: First, Second and General. First and Second are sleepers. First have 2 seats in a cabin, Second have 4. In Second Class genders are separated unless you purchase the entire compartment of 4 seats. First-class includes bedding, breakfast, and dinner all-inclusive. Both can be purchased without bedding or food. Tickets have to be booked through the office on Station Road in south-central Nairobi, or online.
 
By bus
Kenya’s bus system is mostly reliable. There are many bus companies that have routes going to and from the country’s different cities, including Nairobi, the center of the bus network.

By matatu
Matatus (14-18 seater minibuses) and shuttles (6-seater cars) are convenient, inexpensive (and often the only) modes of public transport connecting Nairobi to towns and tourist destinations in the Rift Valley and Central Highlands such as Naivasha, Nyeri, Nanyuki, Isiolo, and Thika. Matatus can be obtained from the River Road area.
Exercise extreme caution in this area: petty theft is a major concern, and valuables such as mobile phones and wallets should not be prominently displayed here, particularly after dark and even while in the matatu (see safety section below). The best method of connecting to a matatu is to arrange for a taxi to drop you off and pick you up directly at the location of the matatu that you are boarding or alighting from. If you're boarding a matatu from Nairobi, tell the taxi driver your destination and they will drop you off at the correct location. If you are being picked up, then tell the taxi driver the location you're coming from as well as the matatu company that you are using (your ticket should have the operator's name). It is best to arrange for a taxi from the hotel you're staying at. The price is dependent on the distance of travel.

By boat
Entry into Nairobi by boat is of course not possible, however, one could certainly arrive in Kenya by boat via Mombasa or Lamu, and proceeding by road, air, or rail to Nairobi. Immigration should be processed at the port facility.

Get aroundNairobi has notoriously bad traffic and a rush hours (7-9am, 4.30-6.30pm) much of the city grinds to a halt. Just about every bad driving habit is practiced, in particular by matatus and buses. Be careful getting around Nairobi if you have an appointment to make, traffic is very bad like any other major city, but if you use common sense and a local or guide, you should be able to get where you want.
If self driving a GPS is a good idea, essential even, given the lack of road signs. However GPS's can tempt you to take backroad shortcuts when stuck in traffic that turn out to be dead-ends. As a general rule don't take a short cut if no one else is trying the same thing.
 
Car Hire and Rental
Vehicles are subject to customs duties of up to 70%, and this in turn pushes up car hire prices. Many of the usual car hire chains have franchises in the city and several rental options are available, with the cheapest rentals. You can hire cars with a driver(chauffeur-driven) or on self-drive basis. Nairobi car hire companies offer salons, 4x4, and safari cars. Carefully read the rental contract to check for rules on insurance liabilities in case of accident or theft of the vehicle. Local car hire firms are available, often on a cash-in-advance basis. These operators are cheaper and more flexible than the international brands, but you risk greater levels of hassle in the event of an accident, theft or breakdown.
Nairobi Car Hire offers good services for 4x4 and other categories of cars.
Central car hire is a reliable, trustworthy, and helpful rental company based in Nairobi. Two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive vehicles are available and are well-maintained.
  
By taxi
Taxis are not very cheap, but will make city life easier and safer, at least at night. Always set and agree on prices before the trip, and pay afterwards. You can find taxis parked around hotels and tourist areas. The taxis tend to be marked with a yellow line on each side. Your best bet is to ask a local or at your hotel.
 
By bus (matatu)
A matatu (public minibuses/commuter buses) is typically used for traveling between downtown Nairobi and the suburbs. Matatus vary in size, between the van sized 14 seat Matatus and the larger 50-seat buses. involved in accidents. Because there are no licensing requirements, matatus are often poorly driven, with drivers passing on curbs, speeding, or passing in oncoming lanes while cars are oncoming.
On each bus is a conductor who will hang out of the matatu and call out a price and location the matatu is driving. Beware of traffic jams on the large motorways, not only in the rush hours.
 

While generally safe, you should be aware that matatus are involved in a high number of accidents every year. Matatus are often overcrowded, with more people than seatbelts and therefore can be dangerous if
By foot
Walking around Nairobi is fairly easy since the city is small and places are easy to get to. However, there are some areas within the city where tourists should not go; minimise walking around at night. Thugs are rampant in many areas.

By roadCar hire from the airport is possible, and fairly painless with prices in line with other African countries. In the recent past, Nairobi had a severe car-jacking problem, but because of increased police check-points, it has become marginally safer. Travelling during the day reduces your chances of getting car-jacked, as most car-jackings occur after dark.

See
Nairobi is known as the safari capital of Africa, however the city has still managed to keep up with modernization. Unlike other cities, Nairobi is surrounded by 113 km² (70 mi²) of plains, cliffs and forest that makes up the city’s Nairobi National Park. The city is filled with many things to do during the day and the night. Tourists can have their pick from numerous safaris (wildlife, cultural, sport, adventure, scenic and specialist), ecotourism tours, restaurants, culture, shopping and entertainment. While in Nairobi, tourists can also engage in numerous sports from golf, rugby, athletics, polo, horse-racing, cricket and football (soccer).

•    Nairobi National Park- just outside Nairobi. This is home to large herds of Zebra, Wildebeest, Buffalo, Giraffe, Lion, Cheetah, Hippo, Rhino and even birdlife (over 400 species). Here you can also go on the Nairobi Safari Walk, an educational centre to make people aware of wildlife and habitat conservation. Also in the park is the Nairobi Animal Orphanage.

•    Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage- close to the Nairobi National Park. This Orphanage takes in elephant calves and rhinos from all over Kenya which were orphaned by poaching. Showing is only once per day from 11am-12pm (admission 500Ksh) and gives you a great opportunity to interact directly with baby elephants.

•    Giraffe Centre- in Lang'ata right outside of Nairobi. The Centre breeds the endangered Rothschild Giraffe and has conservation/education programmes for Kenyan children. It also has many warthogs. Here you can feed giraffes by hand and even get a kiss (their tongues can get up to 20" long and are antiseptic).

•    Mamba Village-Typically the 3rd stop for most tourists after the Elephant Orphanage and Giraffe Center, this pleasant park is home to ostriches and crocodiles. Surprisingly quite interesting as you get the chance to interact directly with crocodiles and even hold a baby, with very knowledgable employees serving as guides.

 •    Lake Naivasha. About 1.5hrs outside of central Nairobi, this area is a haven away from the chaos of the city where many 3rd and 4th generation British colonialists continue to reside. Crescent Island is a particularly nice place to visit, even if you have already done a safari. Unique because it gives you the opportunity to walk around the grounds literally alongside giraffes, zebras, wildebeest, impalas, etc.

•    Ol Donyo Sabuk National Park- 65 km from Nairobi, is centred around a 2,146-m (7,141 ft) mountain. This is a mountain forest and plain land, with a large population of Buffalo. It also serves as a refuge for Colobus monkeys, bushbuck, duiker, leopard, and a large variety of bird species.

•    14 Falls- a waterfall at Thika.

•    Kenyatta International Conference Center (K.I.C.C)- (Central District),. The best place to get that far ranging view over the sprawling, congested metropolis that is Nairobi. You can go up to the saucer-shaped top of the conference centre's round viewing tower and depending on smog and fog, you might be able to see as far as the slums and the national park. 400KSH / 200KSH reduced.  

•    US Embassy Memorial Site- (Central District). In 1998 a blast rocked downtown Nairobi. A truck had exploded next to the US Embassy building, reducing it to rubble and killing 212 people some on staff, most bystanders. On the same day, August 7, the US embassy in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania, was also subject to a similar terrorist attack. 21 people have been charged with the crime, including Osama Bin Laden. The former embassy site today contains a memorial that can be visited. 

•     Tana River- is an hour's drive from the city. White water rafting throughout cataracts, which leads to the 14 falls can be done here. The rafting trip also includes a full BBQ lunch.

•    Nairobi National Museum- 8:30AM-5:30PM. Where visitors can learn about Kenya, its history and culture. The museum celebrated 100 years in 2010. A live snake compound is adjacent but not for the timid.

•    National Railway Museum- visitors can learn more about the history of Kenya’s railroads and the Kenya/Uganda railway. It also houses, some of the engines and rolling stock from the country’s colonial period.

•    Nairobi Gallery-This is a museum housing only special exhibits, so the featured artwork is always changing. 

•     Karen Blixen Museum is based on the Karen Blixen’s book "Out of Africa". Her house is now the home of the museum. It is on the outskirts of Nairobi and a taxi or bus can get you to the museum. 

•     Bomas of Kenya- portrays Kenya’s culture. Visitors can see exhibits of traditional Kenyan homes, artifacts, dances, music, and song.

•    Uhuru Gardens- built in remembrance of the struggle for independence, which Kenya was granted in 1963. The monument is a 24-m (79 ft) high triumphal column supporting a pair of clasped hands and the dove of peace, high over a statue of freedom fighter raising the flag. The monument is surround by fountains and lush-landscaped gardens.

•    Westlands by night- Visit the bustling and hip Westlands district, which has turned into the new nightlife center of Nairobi. Many restaurants and bars line the busy Woodvale Grove and Mpaka Road. A visit to 'Tree house' club is a must if you are looking for a spacious one and crowd outnumbered with expats, rather than the otherwise congested natives dominated ones. Traffic can become hectic, well into the early hours. Security is generally tight and the action spills out from packed clubs into the street.

•    Jamia Mosque- (Central District. While Jamia Mosque is tucked away in between other buildings there are striking views to be glimpsed of its intricate structure from many different angles. Easily the most impressive religious structure in the capital, the interior is off-limits to non believers .
 

Do
•    Safari in central Nairobi Park.
•    Try the many excellent restaurants in Nairobi.
•    Go dancing and be a part of Nairobi's excellent nightlife
•    Go ice skating at Panari
•    Visit Village Market and Sherlocks with your friends
•    Go to Maasai market and buy keepsakes for yourself and friends: On Saturday it is at Nairobi High Court parking lot, Village Market on Friday, The Junction on Thursday, Capital Centre on Wednesday. Prepare to haggle and as a guide, pay about half to two thirds of the asking price.
•    Do something different: visit Kibera, the slums of Nairobi. Guided walks are arranged by Kiberatours.
•    Go-Down Arts Centre, (South of Center). A former warehouse turned arts centre - this has also happened in Nairobi and this spot allows you to get a glimpse of what contemporary Kenyan artists are up to, including exhibitions, performances and discussions.  
•    Kazuri Beads shop - Started in 1977 the workshop of beads is adjacent to Karen Blixen's Museum. Was started by an English women to provide sustainable income to the poor Kenyan women. Has beautiful jewelry created of clay brought from the areas surrounding Mt. Kenya.
•    Visit Oloo’s Children Center (OCC) in Kibera: Lend a hand at the volunteer operated school, take a tour of Kibera, and have a cup of tea with the OCC Founder. The founder of the school lives in Kibera and works to provide children in need with education and meals. 616-987-1106

Buy
There is quite a number of networked banking machines in major shopping areas of Nairobi as well as the arrivals area of the airport. Most transactions are cash only, so it is best to have enough cash on hand to pay for purchases and transport. Major Banks gives better exchange rates than any of the FOREX bureaus. Independent machines have lower cash limits and may have a higher fee. Cash is dispensed in units of 1000/=. Note: Many smaller businesses do not have much change, so be sure to have a good selection of smaller notes before going shopping for curios.
Forex Bureaus are located in many parts of the city where tourists are common. They will exchange cash of different currencies, and may also accept a personal cheque for Kenyan cash. They will want a photocopy of your passport before they exchange money. Rates are not bad, but will be worse than a banking machine will offer. Be aware that many exchange bureaus and hotels will NOT accept or exchange American currency printed before 2000. When the exchange bureaus do accept pre-2000 notes, they typically offer substantially lower exchange rates than for curreny printed after 2000. Credit Cards Many specialty stores accept international credit cards, however they normally tell you up front that they will charge you bank fees, typically 5% of the purchase.

This may also be a good place to repeat the warning about safety: Pickpockets are rampant in Nairobi and have been known to keep an eye on people getting cash from a machine. It is best to carry cash in a hidden pouch rather than a wallet. Men: do not carry your wallet in your back pocket, and women: do not carry your purse to your side or behind you, particularly in busy locations.
The four primary supermarkets in Nairobi are Tusky's, Uchumi, Naivas and Nakumatt. For goods beyond supermarket fare, try Yaya Centre on Argwings Kodhek Road in the Kilimani area, The Junction on Ngong Road, or the Sarit Centre and Nakumatt Westgate which are both located in the Westlands suburb.
The Sarit Centre will be recognizable to any Western traveller as a shopping mall, with an Uchumi supermarket inside. Clothing, shipping, and Internet are all available here. In addition, there is a small movie theater. Other malls in Nairobi include Yaya Centre near Hurlingham and The Mall in Westlands.
Nakumatt Westgate is a just finished competitor to Sarit Centre. It is a large building with many spaces for stores to move in to (they have yet to move in at the time of this writing, however the building is still unfinished). Currently, the primary occupant is the Nakumatt itself, which has modeled itself to emulate a Super Wal-Mart type experience. Any taxi driver will know these two shopping centers by name, so getting there is not a problem.
An additional smaller supermarket, catering more to expatriates, is in ABC Plaza, along Waiyaki Way. Chandarana supermarket carries a wide variety of imported goods, Zucchini greengrocer is a highly dependable spot for clean and varied veggies, and Gilani's is a well stocked western style butchery.
For local curios and souvenirs, the most easily accessible and tourist-friendly is the Maasai Market, held on Fridays at the Village Market, an upscale, open concept shopping center near the United Nations and American Embassy complexes. Bargaining is necessary, and one should probably not spend more than 1000KSh on one item, except in extraordinary circumstances. The Masai Market is also held on Thursdays at the parking lot of the Junction Shopping Center and Tuesdays at the parking lot of the Westgate shopping center. Bargain hard, and do not let that deter you from speaking with many of the friendly shopkeepers who are apt to offer gifts with no other incentives.

For slightly better prices, visit the Tuesday market in town, just down from the Norfolk hotel. This market is less secure, but is larger and offers more variety and opportunity for bargaining.
Another Nakumatt is located at Nakumatt Junction, past Lavington towards the Ngong Racecourse (Horse Flat-Racing takes place 3 Sundays a month, and is a great way to spend an afternoon). The Nakumatt Junction shopping complex features a few more boutiques - one of note being Zebu, a store highlighting local Designer Annabelle Thom's leather bags and more, where you will find higher quality and higher prices for beautiful designs.
Biashara Street, located downtown, is the spot for textiles. Make sure you pick up at least one kikoi or kikoy (a traditional wrap for Swahili men, predominantly at the coast). Haria's Stamp Shop (been around for more than 70 years!) (www.hariastamp.com) has one of the best selections of kikoy as well as other african fabrics and souvenirs.
 
Eat
 
Budget
Roast House in the city centre facing the matatu station on Tom Mboya Rd. Regular local prices with more selection, excellent food, friendly service. Very busy at lunchtime.
Habesha near Ya Ya center- great Ethipian food .
 

Mid-range
Nairobi has a fantastic array of mid-range eateries.
Open House  is an excellent Indian restaurant nearby Westlands area of Nairobi. With such a high predominance of Indians in the country, this is one of the best places to get authentic cuisine in an upscale environment at a reasonable price. Do not miss the ginger chicken wings - very unique!
Mesob is an authentic Ethiopian restaurant located at the China Centre on Ngong Road near the Chinese embassy. Meals cost around Ksh 500 and the food is excellent.
Java House, with quite a few locations, including The Junction, ABC Place, and close to the United Nations, features a western coffee house menu, from bagels to burritos, with excellent coffees and milkshakes, and a full breakfast menu. Another popular coffeehouse is Dormans
Trattoria is an Italian restaurant. Do not expect anything decent when it comes to the mains . However, there is a fabulous and extensive dessert menu, including crepes, tiramisu, souffle, and a coffee granita with fresh cream
Motherland, is an authentic Ethiopian restaurant with great and affordable food (typical of Ethiopian restaurants in Nairobi!).
Havana Bar, Woodvale Grove, Westlands. Popular bar and restaurant with a laid-back Latin theme. Renowned for their sizzling Fajitas, steaks and seafood dishes. Reasonably priced. The kitchen is open daily from noon til late.
Village Market Food Court, Has an array of different ethnic cuisines, including Thai, Italian, Chinese and German, as well as a Mongolian Barbeque. Good prices as well. Venture further into Village Market to find a good Japanese restaurant as well, though with slightly steeper prices. There are also food courts at other malls in the city.
Nairobi has a wide range of Indian restaurants that speaks to the significant South Asian community in Kenya. The city also offers other restaurants specializing in different European and Asian cuisine.
Common fast food restaurants include Steers, Debonairs, Wimpy, Galito's, local favourite, Kenchic among others.
In addition, there are several local restaurants that cater to local cuisine like sukuma wiki (green spinach-like vegetable, 'Kale' in English), ugali (corn bread, ground maize flour and made to a tasty white bread/porridge form), nyama choma (lit: meat roast), chapati, and other specialties.
Splurge
The Carnivore, located just outside the city, close to the Uhuru Gardens, is a luxury restaurant famous for its meats. In 2006, the restaurant was listed as one of the top 50 restaurants in the world. Once seated, different masai grilled meats will be carried around on sticks and carved to your plate at request. Very expensive by Kenyan standards, beware of additional taxes and catering levys. Reservations might be a good idea, ask at your hotel.

Furusato, located in Westlands, has fantastic Japanese food. For a price.
The Rusty Nail, in Karen, has been super in the past, but mediocre of late. No reason not to give it another chance. This restaurant has now closed.
The Lord Errol, past Village Market and into Runda, is said to have very good food, and is popular with the expat crowd.
"Moonflower," on State House hill at the Palacina hotel, is a very upscale bistro / fusion / grill restaurant in a lovely outdoor setting. Fantastic food.
"Pango Brasserie" at the Fairview Hotel features upscale french and continental dishes. Dinner begins in an underground stone wine cellar where the chef will send out complimentary tasters while you sip a bottle of wine of your choice.
"Alan Bobbe's Bistro" is a venerable, legendary restaurant now located on Rhapta Road (near St. Marys School). Founded in 1962, the restaurant features French haute cuisine at about a third of what you would pay in Paris!
 
Stay safe
Nairobi has a reputation for thievery. Beware of snatch and grab, con artists, or groups of people following you. Scams are elaborate and can involve up to 10 or more people working together. The best advice for a tourist is to stay in the city centre, know where you are at all times, and pretend you know where you're going (even if you don't). If you find yourself in an unfamiliar area your best bet is to find a taxi (although you will probably pay dearly if the driver suspects a panicked westerner!). Don't carry large quantities of money or passports on the street, and assume that anyone trying to engage you is up to no good or trying to sell you something. In recent years, crime has significantly reduced, though one should still be wary. If one stays smart and plays safe, without going around much after dark, Nairobi is a safe place to stay. Most locals are honest people who will happily help you if you approach them.
Kenyans are proud people and there is not a lot of begging like you find in some other countries. Some opportunistic people will hang around shopping centres and beg, but they will generally accept a simple 'sorry' and leave you alone if you do not give. Many of these 'beggars' are middle class kids or adults who have realised they can profit from exploiting foreigners, and should not be encouraged. If you are ever lucky enough to visit a slum as a local (not on some perverse tourist safari) you will discover the poorest of the poor do not even beg.
Outside of tourist and expat communities, young children will become excited at the sight of foreigners. If you are fair-skinned, children may run towards you to try to shake your hand, or yell "mzungu" (white person) or "how are you?". Older kids are more reserved, and you should be wary of kids who are older than 9 or 10 who are trying to distract or get close to you.
Slums should be avoided by tourists as you will attract a lot of attention which can quickly turn into a dangerous situation.
Apart from the inner city centre, Nairobi dies out at night. Streets are mostly empty. Do not walk alone after nightfall. Always use taxis. The areas north and east of River Road should be avoided, especially if you're not a local!
Biashara Street is a safe shopping street due to the presence of 10-15 Maasai guards. A place to avoid as a tourist is the City Market; you could end up paying a much higher price than on Biashara Street.
If you are in a matatu and moving slowly through traffic, particularly after dark, you should keep your window closed if your valuables are in reach to prevent people snatching them from the outside (there are thieves who walk through traffic looking for such opportunities). Mobile phones and wallets should be securely kept and not displayed prominently during calls or cash transactions in the River Road area, particularly after dark.
Eastleigh (known as 'little Mogadishu') is an area near the city centre that is decaying due to years of neglect by the government (including the police). It is predominantly populated by Somalian migrants and refugees, and most Kenyans will not go there for fear of their safety. Tourists would be wise to avoid it day and night.
There have been several grenade attacks in the city for which Al-Shabaab have claimed responsibility. These are likely to be ongoing while the Kenyan army has a presence in Somalia. They are random and often fatal, and one should be weary and report any suspicious behaviour.
 
Stay healthy
It is recommended that before tourists come to Nairobi, that they should be vaccinated well in advance (6 weeks) of their trip. The most common recommended vaccines for people traveling to Africa are Tetanus, Diphtheria, Polio, Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B, Yellow Fever, Rabies and Meningitis.
 
Food and beverages
Be careful with the food that you eat outside the more upscale establishments. Before eating, make sure that the food is freshly and thoroughly cooked and served hot. Also avoid seafood, apart from the upmarket restaurants and hotels, and make sure that your fruits and vegetables have been properly sterilized in clean water. The safest fruits to eat are bananas and papayas. Do not drink tap water or brush your teeth with it. Only use bottled or canned drinks (especially popular brands). Also, do not use ice as it may also be contaminated water, and remember that alcohol does not sterilize a drink. The general rule of thumb is, the more high end an establishment is, the greater the safety of the food and drink within.
 
Insects
In Africa you are going to be exposed to yellow fever, dengue fever, other viral diseases, sleeping sickness, filariasis and malaria, although none of these diseases are a concern in Nairobi itself. When insects are biting you should cover up and wear long-sleeved shirts and trousers, socks and pyjamas especially when night falls. It is best to use an insect repellent that contains DEET on your exposed skin and clothing. As for mosquito nets, it is best to use a permethrin-impregnated net along with an insecticide such a pyrethrum coils or an electric mosquito killer during the night. And remember to spray your hotel room every evening.
 
Heat & Sun
Make sure to drink plenty of fluids (not coffee, alcohol or strong tea) to avoid dehydration. The average temperature is around 25 C (maximum might reach 30 C) throughout the year. Try to avoid plenty of physical exertion and try to stay in the shade and keep cool as much as possible. Increase the amount of salt intake in your food and water. Also, apply a lot of high factor sunscreen, avoid direct sunlight, and try to wear a hat and shady clothing.
 
Get out
Lake Naivasha is worth at least a day's visit and has enough to keep you occupied for two or three days. Lakeshore country clubs are a good place for lunch. You can take a boat ride on the lake to see hippos, go for a walk among zebra and giraffes on Crescent Island, ride thoroughbred horses among zebra, giraffes and wildebeest at the Sanctuary Farm, and ride bicycles among wildlife and dramatic scenery at Hell's Gate National Park.
Further afield, Nakuru National Park deservedly warrants a 1-night stay for a late-afternoon and early-morning game drive.

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